"This season, Marine Serre takes over La Monnaie de Paris, inaugurating a powerful dialogue between illusion, symbolism, and transmission. The choice of this historic venue, the oldest of the French institutions
(864 AD), and also the ultimate symbol of Money in Paris might seem unexpected. But it embodies the paradox of this independent fashion house and its resistance in a world run by financial dictates. To invite her community to the show, the house literally provides the guests with a coin - stamped with the moon on one side and Marine’s profile on the other, and serving not as a token for financial exchange but as a talisman. A nod to the French Marianne, a symbol of empowerment and freedom.
This collection marks a turning point, both personal and creative. At the symbolic age of 30, and after seven years – the age of reason – spent building her fashion house, Marine Serre reaches a maturity where
the boldness of these forty seven looks becomes more asserted. The silhouettes have evolved: graceful, structured, blending sensuality and strength. A powerful stature, a cinched waist, references to the femme fatale of the 1950s and 1980s.
The first look is the iconic catsuit worn by our mysterious masked character, referencing Irma Vep - one of the first modern heroines of cinema history. The moon-tattooed leather becomes a language, a second
skin that sculpts the body with precision. A midi leather dress with futuristic shoulders embodies the tension between power and desire. A structured couture dress made out of upcycled leather, sourced from biker pants, carries with it the memory of speed and adrenaline. Leather plays a prominent role in the collection. The AURORA bag, the MS CRUSH heels, and a jewelry capsule collection, halfway between tribal
ornaments and archetypal props, complete this femme fatale costume.
A pillar of eco-futurism, Marine Serre embraces a sustainable approach through upcycling that goes beyond clothing: ten couture pieces reinvent coins, medals, antique watches, and dormant furs, reminding us of the wild dimension of a world that has forgotten its connection to nature. Items stripped of their commercial value, which, when juxtaposed on a
couture dress, regain their ornamental value. Watch bracelets raise questions about time in a place associated with money. Marine Serre performs a sort of transgenerational archaeological dig that allows
fragments of history to emerge in a form of eco activism. Imagination at the service of transformation. And each time, there are correspondences between ready-to-wear and couture pieces with a creative practice meant to link the street and the red carpet.
The collection transitions from white to black in an architectural radicality and leaves little room for color. A deep red dominates, pulsating with an energy that fluctuates between passion and power. The carmine velvet tracksuit, tailored for red carpets, merges the elegance of the fabric with the sophistication of a sporty cut. Red mesh and satin contribute to the panel. The duality between the real and the illusion, between the concrete and the abstract, is a vibrant tribute to the universe of David Lynch. The collection is inspired by the Red Room of Twin Peaks, that space where time and logic distort, where the black-and-white zigzag floor seems to defy any stability. Like in the cult series, Marine Serre invites us into a world where the boundaries between truth and fiction blur, where clothes become portals to other realities where each person plays the character they dream of embodying.
At the heart of this collection, trompe-l'œil becomes a language. Marine Serre plays with perception, creating silhouettes where appearances blur, where textiles imitate textures, as seen in lingerie print or encapsulated nightdresses. This season, Marine Serre explores illusion in all its forms, blurring the boundaries between appearance and reality, between structure and fluidity. An oversized puffer jacket, a tribute to André Leon Talley, asserts itself with monumental confidence and recalls Chesterfield furniture. Recycled nylon, shaped with precision, mimics the shine of leather and the button becomes a moon embroidery. The trench coat, an archetype of classic wardrobes, becomes a modular construction of superimposed pieces. And the puffer jacket plays with the codes of the trenchcoat accessing a new status. In this collection, illusion doesn’t hide—it reveals. A collection where every line, every volume, every detail tells a story of a mature Marine Serre. Radicality, structure and grace: an invitation to look beyond appearances, to question what we believe to be tangible, and to embrace uncertainty with audacity.
THE MUSIC
The music, composed by Para One sets the tone, with a hypnotic and captivating opening. The track, then evolves with a strong tribute to Badalamenti, reinforcing the reference to Lynch, and ends with a highly emotional finale, like a moment of shared spiritual connection, a signature of the house." - Marine Serre
